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We head to the Vitality Oasis, the largest and strictly adult-only section of the spa.A giant billboard of a nude couple makes clear that we're about to enter a compulsory clothes-off zone.Honestly, swimming and drinking beer in the nude is such a novelty that we can't help ourselves.One contest has us diving under water to the bar counter (you can open your eyes in the thermal shallows) then arising like Zeus to sup a pint in gales of laughter. A cutting-edge area of the spa, it's where the detoxification process begins.Couples piggyback through deeper waters like pairs of mating frogs. A century ago Germany's spa scene was strictly high society.Others steam outside in thermal rockpools, wallowing like blissed-out manatees. The likes of King Edward VII and Russian Tsar Nicholas II "took the waters" in ritzy retreats such as Bad Homburg and Marienbad.Soft music mutes any noise from your naked neighbour.There's just enough light to read a newspaper by, but most of us doze on the contoured beds.

We take an elevator up to the highest slide (yep, no stairs to climb here) and recline on a two-person inflatable sofa. My spatial awareness is governed only by my wife's open-mouthed screams and the g-force in the pit of my stomach.We buzz our wristbands at the electronic gate and drop our towels. Goofy, gangly and whiter than a weisswurst, they are hardly hardy specimens of Bavarian youth.Yet they are as comfortable with their nakedness as I would have been mortified at the same age.But to the naïve eyes of my wife and I, the scene seems almost Bacchanalian, a hedonistic playground as painted by Hieronymus Bosch.Hundreds of happy bathers aged from 18 to 80 splash naked in 34C healing springs.

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